Sunday, August 26, 2012

En route to Congo-Kinshasa

The days leading up to my next international journey to the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) were short and hectic. I’ve only just returned from a whirlwind 10-day voyage to the island of Madagascar in Southern Africa, and am in the middle of transitioning teams – from supporting a malaria prevention project in Malawi to an HIV/AIDS prevention project in the Congo. Meanwhile, our Washington office has taken on a company-wide move, and I had to hastily pack up all of my desk goodies into boxes at the final hour before my flight; hard files, mementos from previous travels, weird canned soups needed in those desperate lunch hours. This is all to say that while I would have liked to have truly prepared myself for the journey to this new Congolese country via reading up on its Belgian history, understanding the current political situation and ongoing conflict, shinnying up on my HIV/AIDS lingo, all I’ve really had time for are the headlines.

And all these headlines spell out E-B-O-L-A.
Two images of what I imagined to be the “Hot Zone”/airplane-induced virus continued to pop into my head: one of my contracting a violent, on-the-spot hemorrhagic fever, and the second of my becoming my least favorite type of traveler…the lone traveler who sports a “Hello Kitty” face mask. It’s like saying “I know something you don’t” in the worst kind of cutesy way.  

In preparation for what can only turn out to be my Ebola-induced demise (because let’s be honest, I would not be caught dead in a Hello Kitty face mask), I’ve done what anyone else would do. Live the last leg of life to the fullest.
It began with trying to sneak myself and my travel companion, long-time work friend Emily, into the United International First Class lounge. Unfortunately, and very obviously, us two hoodied twenty-somethings did not have first class tickets and were rightfully denied access. Yet for some reason, an elderly couple on their way to a similar environment (a cruise to England, Ireland, Iceland, and Greenland) found our sweatsuits endearing and invited us in as their guests. We, in gratitude, ate and drank our body weights in cheese and wine.

Next scheme was to take full advantage of having gotten bumped up from Economy to Economy Plus. While you may not think that extra 3 inches of leg space makes a difference, you’d be surprised at the different positions you can force yourself into just with a bit more wriggle room. Thankfully, I was not sitting next to dear Emily during this cirque du soleil of airplane sleeping, because I’m sure the suckers I was sitting next to were not appreciative of my strong arming, and legging, all of the available “Plus” space.
Emily w/ pivotal Primus & peanuts
Two 8-hour flights later and without feeling any signs of the Ebola-burn, we arrived at the Kinshasa airport and were greeted by a man holding a chalkboard with our two names etched. With our bags safely in-tow, we were on our way to the best hotel Kin has to offer, and upon arrival went directly to the poolside restaurant. I had previously been warned that the DRC was one of the most expensive African countries, which in my mind meant maybe a fifty cent banana. Yet I quickly learned it would be 16,000 francs ($16 USD, divide by 1K) for a single-avocado salad, 22,000 for a hamburger without fries, and 38,000 for fish and (woohoooo) boiled vegetables. We therefore decided to drink the local Primus beer, the cheapest thing on the menu, and split a croque monsieur (fancy way to say ham and cheese) sandwich with a side of arrachides gratuits/free peanuts, not unlike the Economy Plus airplane food we had just left behind.
Feeling courageous after sharing two large Primus together in the safety of our hotel lobby restaurant, and remembering that life is too short on this African continent, I boldly stated “nous avons entendu que si nous acheterons une troisieme Primus, on receverions un crepe gratuit”/”we heard that if we were to buy a third Primus, we’d get a free crepe,” n’est ce pas?
First impressions of urban Kinchasa

Et voila! Two normally priced $10 waffles were served up to us gratuitement!
  
 A bit rundown, but no space goes unused...

I’ve since learned that these inflated prices on food, including beloved crepes & waffles, are a result of an increasing population with decreasing food production due to the Congolese conflict, an increase in gas prices, and informal taxes (aka bribes) which have been imposed on imports in result of the need to outsource food. I’ve also learned that you won’t get anything unless you ask – the theme of our trip thus far after having taken on a new lease on life.
Kin-Mart, where you can buy $5.50 single-serving bottled water!

More importantly, I’ve received word that the most recent Ebola breakout came from the consumption of viande de brousse/
bushmeat (hoofed animals, primates and rodents) – from which I can, believe it or not, refrain myself from indulging. Additionally, I’ve decided to abide by the great advice of the President of Uganda, who has his own outbreak of Ebola to deal with. He encourages us all to avoid shaking hands, kissing, and having sex in order to prevent the spread of the disease – mom and dad will be so proud! No Hello Kitty mask necessary, to boot!
While I have made a good amount of fun of the current health situation in the DRC, Ebola is no joke and I do not take the subject lightly. There have been a number of Ebola-related deaths in Uganda and the toll has reached 10 in eastern Congo. We will absolutely take all necessary precautions and will be on red alert in terms of staying self-aware. However, it is important to remember that Emily and I are here to support an HIV/AIDS prevention program. Let’s not forget that AIDS kills between 26,000-40,000 people per year. If only we could get those numbers down to the same level as Ebola.

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